Yes, anamorphic bokeh can be created without specialized anamorphic lenses—though the effect will be a simulation (not identical to true anamorphic bokeh) and relies on affordable tools, DIY methods, or post-processing. The key is to replicate the core trait of anamorphic bokeh: horizontal stretching of out-of-focus highlights (to create oval shapes) and alignment with a wide cinematic aspect ratio (e.g., 2.39:1). Below are the most practical, accessible methods:
1. Using Anamorphic Lens Filters or Adapters (Most Popular)
These are the simplest "in-camera" solutions (no heavy post-processing) and work with standard spherical lenses (DSLR/mirrorless, smartphone, or action cam). They mimic anamorphic optics by subtly distorting the light path for out-of-focus areas.
- Anamorphic Filters: Screw-on filters (e.g., Moment CineFlare, Sirui 1.33x) or clip-on smartphone filters that add horizontal blur to bokeh. They use shaped prisms or micro-structured glass to stretch out-of-focus light horizontally. For best results, pair them with wide apertures (f/1.8–f/2.8) and medium focal lengths (50mm full-frame / 35mm APS-C) to avoid vignetting.
- Anamorphic Adapters: Budget-friendly "clip-on" or "thread-on" adapters (e.g., Moondog Labs 1.33x) that attach to standard lenses. They compress light horizontally (like true anamorphic lenses) but with simpler optics—you’ll need to "desqueeze" the footage later (via software) to reveal the oval bokeh.
Note: These tools produce convincing bokeh for casual use but may lack the sharpness or uniformity of true anamorphic lenses (e.g., edge bokeh might look softer or uneven).
2. DIY Methods (Low-Cost, Experimental)
For a budget-friendly approach, you can repurpose everyday items to distort out-of-focus light. These methods are hit-or-miss but work for testing the effect:
- Cylindrical Lens Filters: Use a small cylindrical lens (e.g., from old reading glasses, magnifying glasses, or laser pointers) and mount it in front of your standard lens (tape it loosely, or use a filter holder). Cylindrical lenses bend light along one axis (horizontal, in this case), stretching out-of-focus highlights into ovals. Rotate the cylinder to align the stretch horizontally.
- Tape/Black Card Modification: Cut a narrow horizontal slit in a black card and place it over your lens’s front element (leave a small gap). This blocks vertical light rays in out-of-focus areas, creating a stretched, oval-like bokeh. The effect is subtle and works best with bright, point-like backgrounds (e.g., fairy lights).
Limitation: DIY methods often introduce light leaks, uneven bokeh, or reduced sharpness in the in-focus area—they’re better for experimentation than professional work.
3. Post-Processing (Software Simulation)
If you don’t want to modify your camera/lens, you can create anamorphic-style bokeh entirely in editing software. This method is flexible but requires careful masking to look natural:
- Step 1: Shoot for Post: Capture footage/photos with a standard lens at a wide aperture (f/1.4–f/2.8) to get circular bokeh (the bigger the bokeh, the easier it is to stretch). Use a shallow depth of field (e.g., subject 3ft from the background) to make bokeh prominent.
- Step 2: Stretch Bokeh Horizontally:
- For photos: Use Photoshop/GIMP—select out-of-focus areas with a soft-edged brush or "Select and Mask," then apply a horizontal "Scale" (Edit > Transform > Scale) to stretch the selection by 15–30% (match your desired squeeze factor, e.g., 1.33x = 33% stretch).
- For video: Use Premiere Pro/DaVinci Resolve—apply a "Power Window" (circular or custom shape) to isolate bokeh highlights, then use the "Transform" effect to stretch the window horizontally. For batch processing, use plugins like Red Giant Universe Anamorphic Pro or FilmConvert (presets for anamorphic bokeh).
- Step 3: Crop to Cinematic Aspect Ratio: Finally, crop the frame to 2.39:1 (wide-screen) to reinforce the anamorphic look—this hides any uneven stretching at the edges.
Pros/Cons: No gear needed, and you can adjust the bokeh stretch dynamically. However, it’s time-consuming for video, and poorly masked selections will look artificial (e.g., stretched in-focus details).
How Simulated Anamorphic Bokeh Differs from the "Real" Thing
True anamorphic lenses (e.g., Sirui 50mm T2.9, Atlas Orion) create bokeh via asymmetrical optical compression (cylindrical elements), resulting in:
- Uniform oval bokeh across the entire frame (no edge softening).
- Natural "flaring" (e.g., blue horizontal streaks) that ties into the bokeh effect.
- No loss of sharpness in the in-focus subject.
Simulated methods (filters, DIY, post) often fall short in one or more ways:
- Filters/adapters may produce uneven bokeh (blurrier at the frame edges).
- DIY methods can reduce overall image sharpness.
- Post-processing may look "fake" if masking is imprecise (e.g., stretching parts of the subject by accident).
Final Recommendation
For casual creators or those on a budget: Start with an anamorphic filter (e.g., Moment 1.33x for smartphones/DSLRs)—it’s the easiest way to get convincing bokeh without post-processing. For more control: Use post-processing (e.g., DaVinci Resolve power windows) if you already have a wide-aperture lens. Avoid DIY methods unless you’re experimenting—they’re inconsistent.