How to Decode Diesel Generator kVA Ratings (Without Getting Scammed)
Let’s be honest: diesel generators aren’t exactly dinner table conversation material. But if you’ve ever needed one—whether it’s for backup power, off-grid living, or running heavy equipment—you’ll know just how confusing the specs can get. And right at the center of that confusion? Three little letters: kVA.
It’s the kind of thing sellers will toss around like everyone’s an electrical engineer. And that’s where folks get misled—or worse, totally scammed. But don’t worry. You don’t need a degree in electrical theory to figure it out. You just need a few minutes and a clear explanation, which is what we’re diving into here.
Oh, and if you’re currently browsing options, this https://www.ablesales.com.au/diesel-generators.html might help. Just don’t get distracted by all the numbers—let’s decode them first.
So... What Is kVA, Anyway?
Let’s break it down nice and simple.
kVA stands for kilovolt-amps. It’s a way of measuring the power a generator can theoretically deliver. Think of it like the full potential of the machine. But—and here’s the catch—it doesn’t tell you how much useful power you’re actually going to get out of it.
That’s because not all the power a generator produces gets used efficiently. Some of it is wasted as heat or lost in the system. That’s where the Power Factor comes into play.
Power Factor: The Secret Ingredient
Okay, stick with me. This won’t turn into a math lesson—I promise.
Most generators assume a power factor of 0.8. That basically means that 80% of the total kVA is usable as real power, which is measured in kW (kilowatts). If that sounds like jargon, think of it like this:
If a generator is rated at 100 kVA, and the power factor is 0.8, then you’re actually getting 80 kW of usable power.
So when you see a kVA rating on a generator, you’ve got to do a quick conversion to figure out how much power it’ll actually deliver in the real world. Multiply the kVA by 0.8 and you’ll get the kW.
Why the Difference Matters (Like, A Lot)
Here’s where things can go sideways if you’re not careful.
Some sellers love to highlight the big kVA ( https://www.gogopower.com.au/blogs/articles/comparing-diesel-generators-which-type-fits-your-application? ) number because, well, it sounds impressive. But they conveniently forget to tell you how much real power that equates to. And if you’re not aware of the difference, you might think you’re buying more generator than you actually are.
It’s kind of like ordering a “16oz steak” and getting mostly bone and fat. Sure, it technically weighs 16 ounces—but what you really care about is how much meat you’re getting.
Common Mistake: Matching Generator kVA to Your Equipment kW
Let’s say you’ve got a bunch of appliances or machines that draw 80 kW total. You might think, “Alright, I need an 80 kVA generator.”
Nope. You’d be underpowered.
Remember the power factor? You actually need to work backwards. To get 80 kW of usable power from a generator, you’d need:
80 kW ÷ 0.8 = 100 kVA
So, when shopping, don’t just match the numbers. Make sure you’re comparing kW to kW, not kW to kVA. That little detail could save you from a seriously costly mistake—or an overloaded generator that fails when you need it most.
The "Peak Power" Trap
Some sellers also throw in something called “peak power” or “maximum output.” Sounds fancy, right?
This is usually the highest power the generator can deliver for a short burst, like a few seconds or maybe a minute. It’s useful for starting up equipment that draws extra power at the beginning—but it’s not the number you want to rely on for long-term or continuous use.
Always focus on the continuous power rating—the generator’s real-world working ability over time.
Don’t Ignore the Voltage and Phase
Here’s another trap to avoid: buying based on kVA alone and forgetting to check the voltage and phase type.
Some generators are single-phase, others are three-phase. What you choose depends on what you're powering. For household or small business use, single-phase might be fine. But for industrial equipment, you’re likely going to need three-phase.
And if the voltage doesn’t match what your equipment needs? Well... let’s just say it won’t be a fun day.
Portable vs. Stationary: Does kVA Still Matter?
Absolutely.
Even with portable generators, that shiny kVA number can be misleading if you’re not converting it to kW. The only difference is how you’re moving the generator around—not how the power behaves.
So whether you’re buying a rugged worksite unit or something for off-grid camping, the same logic applies. Know your kW needs. Pick a generator ( https://au.jackery.com/blogs/knowledge/what-size-kva-generator-to-run-a-house? ) with a kVA rating that actually covers them (with a little headroom, just in case).
Final Tips to Avoid Getting Scammed
Let’s wrap this up with some real talk. If you're feeling overwhelmed by all the specs, you're not alone. But here's how to keep things simple and safe:
Always ask for the kW rating, not just kVA.
Confirm the power factor—most are 0.8, but not all.
Know your load—what you’ll actually be powering.
Check voltage and phase before buying.
Beware of “peak power” hype—focus on continuous power.
And if something feels too good to be true? Ask questions. The right seller won’t mind.
Wrapping It Up
Buying a diesel generator doesn’t have to feel like reading a foreign language. Once you get the hang of what kVA actually means—and how it ties to the power you really need—it becomes way easier to spot a good deal (and dodge the bad ones).
Take your time, do the math (or use a calculator, no shame in that), and don’t get dazzled by big numbers without context. A little clarity can save you a ton of money—and a lot of headaches—down the line.