One of the great beauties of jewelry, beyond its sparkling surface, is its extraordinary durability. Unlike many other design objects, jewels dating back to antiquity are still easily found — and worn — today. Although it might be difficult to procure an ancient Roman vase, searching for a ring from the same era will yield an array of choices. Because so many fine examples are still readily available and not just tucked away in museum vitrines, jewelry’s past continues to inform its present — and its future.To get more news about Website for Jewelery design and Jewelry custom, you can visit jewelryhunt.net official website.
Many of the motifs and fabrication techniques used in antique and vintage jewels, from Byzantine signets to mid-century cuffs, stand the test of time. Just as designers in the 1920s were inspired by the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb to create jewelry that married the ornamentation of ancient Egypt with the sleek, graphic lines of Art Deco, so their contemporary counterparts are constantly riffing on the past in their own thoroughly modern ways. Here, five of them highlight the antique pieces found on 1stdibs that influence their work today.
Classically trained as a bench goldsmith, LIV LUTTRELL has a deep appreciation for the subtle technical details that are often overlooked. The British designer knows firsthand how challenging it can be to create jewelry that looks effortless, like this ART DECO SAUTOIR NECKLACE:
The meticulously set and matched diamonds are a perfect foil to the extraordinary one-hundred-eighty-nine-carat emerald drop, making an extravagant piece easy to wear. The articulation will make it come alive when worn — that feeling of movement is something I aspire to in my own jewelry.”
Many of Luttrell’s designs capture the molten fluidity of gold. One pair of EARRINGS, FOR EXAMPLE, GIVES THE ILLUSION OF A GOLDEN RIBBON WRAPPING AROUND ONE’S EARLOBE. Another SUSPENDS GOLDEN SOUTH SEA PEARLS in such a way that they playfully slide and roll as the wearer moves. Luttrell forgoes excessive ornamentation in favor of clean, understated lines that complement the body’s natural contours. Distilling designs to their purest form, she imparts a sense of lightness to precious materials.
There’s a sly irreverence to the work of Brooklyn-based designer MARK DAVIS. Having begun his career as an estate jeweler, Davis is adept at creating pieces that nod to vintage styles while being unmistakably modern. He is best known for his use of Bakelite, an early form of plastic, formulated in 1907, that he elevates to lust-worthy heights by teaming it with precious gems. His interest in that tension between high and low drew him to this PIAGET CIRCA-1970 LADIES WRISTWATCH:
“The watch is a perfect example of how an extreme aesthetic sensibility can make the function of a utilitarian item seem secondary. Look at the asymmetrical placement of the face on the bracelet, the clean slab of lapis against the textured gold, the obvious consideration of design coupled with strict restraint. This is such a tight and simple design that speaks volumes by saying very little.”
Although Davis’s pieces have their own sleek refinement, they’re rarely quiet. He favors bold, vivid hues, working with a technicolor spectrum of vintage Bakelite that is painstakingly carved, inlaid and polished. There’s a whiff of Valley of the Dolls glamour to his signature cuffs — particularly when they’re stacked.